Once RCA Victor’s powerhouse of recording, manufacturing and distribution, 1001 Rue Lenoir helped define Montréal’s sound in the heart of the Saint-Henri and nearby Little Burgundy neighbourhoods. Ryan Gray, co-owner of Nora Gray, Elena and Gia Vin & Grill (next door to the RCA), shares his fave spots that hit the right notes, inspired by the building’s storied role in Montréal’s music history.
AS TOLD TO DANIEL BROMBERG
ILLUSTRATION BY SARAH FARQUHAR
1. Gia vin & grill, 1025 rue Lenoir +
2. Elena, 5090 rue Notre-Dame O.
“Led by chef Janice Tiefenbach, Gia is our central-Italian-inspired eatery, and it’s really hitting its stride. Pro tip: Request a seat in the outdoor garden in the summertime. Then there’s Elena. Great hospitality; local, seasonal, wood-fired sourdough pizza; homemade pasta; Montréal’s most iconic salad; and natural wine. I’m biased, but it’s still all true.”
3. Pas de problème, 4754 rue Notre-Dame O.
“Brand new on the scene, this spot is a big vibe—period. With great coffee and excellent reggae music in a chill setting, this place is designed for a slow hang. Don’t sleep on the homemade Jamaican patties.”
4. Bait & Schlang tattoo, 4929 rue Notre-Dame O.
“I don’t have tattoos, but if I did they would be by Nick and Travis at Bait & Schlang.”
5. Marché Atwater, 138 Avenue Atwater
“The true beating heart of Saint-Henri. Built in 1933, the art deco public market is one of Montréal’s most beautiful buildings. For its fresh produce, butchers, cheesemongers and food stalls, both residents and top chefs make weekly grocery runs here.”
6. Crèmerie Dalla Rose, 4609 rue Notre-Dame O.
“Best ice cream shop in the sud-ouest. Go with seasonal specials like corn and blueberry in the summer or the Elena Panettone at Christmas. Their pistachio gelato rivals some of the best I’ve had in Italy. Tell Nick I sent you.”
Sound Callback
7. Place du Bonheur-d’Occasion, 506-522 rue Rose-de-Lima
Named after Gabrielle Roy’s 1945 novel The Tin Flute, this public square nods to Saint-Henri’s working-class roots and an era when nearby Little Burgundy—a neighbourhood once referred to as the “Harlem of the North”—pulsed with jazz music.
